Wall Corner Pie Cut Cabinets (WCP/CSWCP) are a popular storage solution for kitchens, laundry rooms, and home offices. To optimize your space, this cabinet is available in both standard and custom sizes. Need an asymmetrical configuration? No problem! Follow along as Brian explains how to assemble this cabinet, and be sure to have your tools and materials handy. Click through the other helpful links below and, as always, feel free to reach out to your Cabinet Coach with any other questions!
Video Transcript
Hey everybody, Brian here from The Cabinet Joint. We’re going to talk about the base 2-drawer or roll-out cabinet. The Conestoga cabinet came out about three or four years ago. I’m not going to get into assembling it because it assembles just like every other cabinet we have. Same warnings apply: if you’re doing an overlay job (or, I’m sorry, rather an inset job), you have to make sure you mount your brackets to the back of this frame before you assemble the box. We mention this in every video, and you’ll find a link below on how to do that hardware fit-up. If it’s an overlay, you can just build it like any other base cabinet.
What I want to really focus on here is the drawers and how to locate those drawer boxes in the opening because they’re not sitting at the bottom; they’re sitting kind of three-quarters of the way up. So, I want to talk about that a bit. The purpose of this cabinet is to give you the look of two full, equal-size drawers. Imagine a second drawer above—you’ve got two big drawers. This drawer front would be affixed to only this bottom drawer. So when you pull it, you’ve got four screws (two on each side) that attach it to this drawer front that goes up very high and covers that one. And now you have this nice hidden drawer below. So you’ve got two drawers behind one drawer front—very cool, very unique, and very usable.
You’ll notice on these drawers, this top drawer in both cases (both openings) has a top drawer, and both of them have the scoop-front hand pull. You have three hand pull options: one is that scoop front, one is just a circle cut in the front of the box, and the other one is an ellipse cut in the front of the box. This one has the traditional hand pull, which I think looks the nicest, but that’s just my opinion. This top drawer, I believe, is four inches; the bottom one, I think, is six inches, so you’re not quite as deep as you’d get with a full two-drawer base cabinet.
This bottom drawer would be very deep. You’re getting rid of some of the depth of the bottom drawer to get a whole second drawer of usability. Very, very cool! Think placemats, extra cutlery with a cutlery divider in there, or whatever you might find helpful. So now, what I’m going to do is pull these drawers out and come back to show you how to locate the hardware. This is the only unique part of this cabinet in terms of the assembly or the upfit: how to locate the hardware for these two top drawers since it’s kind of floating in space here. I’ll be right back. Okay, before I get into the guts of this, I do want to give you some sizes. I forgot to mention earlier that this cabinet is available from 12 inches wide up to 39 inches wide in eight-inch increments. That’s totally standard. You can get it from 12 to 30 inches deep in three-inch increments. We can’t vary that because that’s the length the door glides and drawer boxes come in. The height can go from 31.5 to 34.5 inches, so you’ve got a three-inch range of height. As you make the cabinet smaller than the standard 34.5 inches, these openings get smaller at the same rate. Of course, you’ll lose some drawer box height, but you can get it shorter if you’re trying to put this in a vanity application or some other lower-than-standard setting.
So, all right, with that in mind, getting our basics out of the way, these glides install the way our normal tandem glides do. If it’s inset, they’re going to mount to the mounting brackets you already mounted per the other video I referenced. If you’re overlaying, the glides sit right on the front frame, so this one and this one are easy, and they give you the locator holes in the back of the cabinet, so mounting the back brackets is not a problem. But you don’t know where this one and this one actually sit without leveling it or whatever. If it’s a standard 34.5-inch-high cabinet, I can tell you right now this one’s seven and a half inches off the floor to the bottom of the glide, and this one’s 22 and 5/8 to the bottom of the glide from the floor of the cabinet. And all I did to get that dimension was transfer the bracket bottom on the back of the cabinet to the front. So you could do the same math, but I can save you that. Whether it’s inset or overlay, seven and a half to the bottom, 22 and 5/8 to the bottom, and you’ll be level. So hopefully, that helps you. And then at that point, slide your drawer boxes in the way you normally would. Fixing the drawer front for the door box is the standard way. There’s nothing tricky about this as a base cabinet. It’s like any other one you’d build. If you have any questions, give your cabinet coach a call at 888-211-6482, and we appreciate you watching. Have a great day!
