Video Transcript
[Music] Hey everybody, Brian with the Cabinet Joint here today. We're not talking about cabinet assembly, we're actually talking about this uh soap tilt tray. We want to show you how to install this. It's a little complicated to show in a video, so bear with us. We're going to show you or kind of walk you through the overlay application in terms of how to install it, but really spend some time on inset because it's a little more difficult. With inset, to get good clean gaps and have this thing open cleanly when that drawer front's in the front frame, so stick with this for the assembly.
What I want to talk about now is the basics of this unit. When rev shelf sells it to you or to us, it comes as two trays. You'll see in the video there's two trays in there and there's four sets of hinges. Those are meant for if you have double drawer fronts, you're going to need to do this operation two times. In this case, we had one big drawer front and so we're able to use one set of hinges and put the two trays side by side on the inside, which you'll see during the assembly.
The other thing I want to make note of is there's two different versions of this kit. One comes with 11in trays, the other one comes with, I believe, 14in trays. You want to make sure you work with your cabinet coach to buy the right kit because if you don't, these two trays will not both mount side by side. You will run out of space. So you want to make sure the trays you buy will double up in your opening or be able to individually work in separate openings. You might have a strange situation where you got to put one of these in a cabinet where you can't get two side by side because you're using like a 27in sink base or whatever. So work with your sales rep to make sure you can butt those together and if not, you can at least fit one of them in there. Other than that, they're pretty straightforward. The trays are plastic, be aware of that. There are some in the aftermarket that have aluminum or stainless steel trays, I believe. We don't sell those, but you may be able to find that as an aftermarket part and install that yourself. It still should work in our drawer front no problem, but be aware these are plastic trays. Some people don't like that when they get them, but be aware that's what they're made of. So let's get into the installation of this bugger and again, you ever have any questions, your cabinet coach can walk you through it.
Okay, so before I get started on showing you the installation of the base tip out trays, I want to talk about what comes in the package. You're going to have a couple of packs of screws. The round-headed ones, pan headed ones are for actually holding the bracket to the back of the draw front, and you have the flat-headed ones which are meant to hold the actual hinge to the cabinet wall or the front frame. So get into that in a minute. So two packs of screws, you're going to get two packs of these hinges. These are what actually mount here and your sink tilt or your drawer front to make the drawer front tilt mounts to these two hinges. You get two packs of them and a lot of customers ask why you got two packs of those and two trays. A lot of times you have two drawer fronts and a divider in the middle, this is so you can put a tip out tray here and a tip out tray here. So you get two of these panels or the actual trays and two sets of hinges. In this case, we have one big opening, so it's going to be two trays mounted to the back of one drawer front side by side, and you're going to have one pair of these hinges. So I can set the other pack off to the side, I will not need them. You also get a little template inside with a little punch out template that we already removed, but it kind of sits like that, this extension template. You take that out and I'll show you how this gets used in a minute.
Now, I want to stress for overlay the instruction that come with it are very straightforward and you can follow them just as easy as watch in this video. I would suggest if you're overlay, I'm going to do a very quick overview of what these instructions are telling you to do, but you can go follow those for overlay. The main reason we're shooting this video is for inset because these are really not designed well for inset and when the drawer front is opening tipping in and out you don't want the drawer front to strike the front frame so some engineering has to go into this so we're going to kind of install them for an inset and show you how that differs from the overlay installation. So overlay folks, quite simple, you take this template, you can punch the extension template out, you're going to put the front edge of the template right against the front of the front frame and it says bottom you're going to put the bottom of it against the front frame and once that's there you can mark the two holes there's a top hole and a bottom hole you can Mark those two holes both sides and pre-drill those.
Okay, so now you're ready to put what that's giving you is the location of this bracket or this hinge it's going to sit there right on the front frame so you can mark those holes. They want you to put the drawer front where it's going to go and then trace a pencil line on the back of your draw front. All right, take the draw front off measure to the center and put a mark for the center of the drawer front then you use this extension template and you put that in the corner of the drawer. So let's say I had, let's say I had a pencil line here, I would put this in the very bottom, put this in the very bottom lined up with the corner and you'll mark and pre-drill those two holes and what those are marking is where those two holes go there that are going to carry the drawer front. Okay, so then you can go ahead and mount the actual bracket to those holes you just drilled and now the draw front's going to have both brackets on it you put the draw front up and in and then mount this to the two holes you already pre-drilled on the front frame all right now your your drawer front is connected to your bracket and you're ready to go last thing is reaching inside the cabinet you can just put these wherever you want them and screw them in place.
Okay, so that's not too bad for overlay. Because it doesn't really matter, there's some adjustability on these hinges. You have some left and right adjustability. You have a slot on this one so you can raise this up and down if you need to. You can get that drawer front dialed in on overlay where it's spaced appropriately. Inset gets a lot more critical because you have to have that consistent 33 seconds Gap all the way around. So my partner and I, Jeffrey, are going to get together here and we're going to mount this for an inset application and show you what we did. When we're done, it's a little too much. It's going to make the video too long if I take you step by step. It's pretty straightforward when I get it done, we'll show you how it differed from overlay. So let's get going.
Okay, so we've got this drawer front onto the tip-out tray hardware, and I want to kind of show you what we did and a couple little finalizing steps. First of all, you're still going to use this jig. We punched out the centerpiece, we did not use that, I'll show you why in a minute. We did the same thing the instructions called for where it wants you to set it on the front frame and justify to the bottom of the front frame. We just tucked it behind the front frame down here. Instead of keeping it to the bottom of the front frame, you want to raise it up about a quarter of an inch. The reason is these screws at the bottom don't have much to bite to, so you're going to want to raise it up. In this case, we didn't, we had enough to bite onto, but I think if we were to do it again, we'd want to raise this up just a little bit. So that arm is further up the back of the drawer.
Alright, so you're going to want to tuck it to the back of the front frame and put the bottom of the template about a quarter of an inch higher than the bottom of the front frame. That's the first thing. Then you drill your holes and you can mount your hardware straight to it. You'll also notice we have 3/4 thick plywood that we mounted here to flush this out with the front frame. If you don't put that there, this bracket's going to sit too far back on the sidewall. You've got to flush it out with the front frame. 3/4 thick plywood works perfectly. That is not supplied by Koga. Again, these are not entirely meant to go into inset cabinets, so Koga does not give you that block of wood. You can get 3/4 plywood at any Lowe's or Home Depot. They even sell them in small 2x2 squares. Just cut yourself a little section to go on both sidewalls.
Instead of using the little insert of this template, they have the little insert that if you look at the overlay instructions in the instruction pamphlet that came with the tip-out hardware, they kind of want you to strike a line and mark it there. We don't like doing that. Instead, you can see this jig in here, or not jig but this shim. We get the drawer front where we want it, we shim it so our gaps are nice and consistent. We have two people. One is holding this drawer front from the front. The other person marks these holes and then we go ahead and mount the drawer front that way. These holes are elongated left to right so if you have to loosen them up and move the windage of the drawer front left and right, you can certainly do that. But that gets you close. So you want somebody on the partner in the front holding this nice and firm, and the second person will put the pre-drill and then the screws in to hold that tight.
Now once you've done that, what you'd notice is this drawer front, it wants to suck in past the front frame. It's not flushed to the front frame. So you'll see right here we used the Koga supplied bumpers that come for inset doors and drawer fronts. We used some extras of those that we have. But you can just mount a piece of plywood or anything that hangs down into the opening to make this drawer stop flush with the front. If you need more of those, your sales rep can get those for you. You might have some extra ones with your job because many of the doors that you put on your job aren't going to be able to have bumpers top and bottom. You'll only be able to do a bumper on the top or bottom. So you should have extras of these anyway. That's what I would use them for, and that'll stop the drawer front nice and flush with the front frame.
So that's kind of the difference between the overlay installation and the inset installation. To summarize, you want to raise this up a little bit more than what the overlay calls for, where it's right tight to the bottom of the front frame. Raise it up a little bit. You don't want to use the template to mark those holes. You want to actually put the drawer front right where you want it so you've got your gaps perfect. I would not trust the template for that mainly because you can't trace a line the way the overlay instructions call for. The last step is with inset, you could put these on or overlay you could put these on after the drawer front is mounted. Just figure out where you want them. Of course, you want to be down equidistant from the top of the drawer wherever you want to put them. Mark a little hole there, pre-drill it, and put these on.
So I'll do that now and show you what that looks like after the fact. But these do not have to be put on the drawer front before you install. I would recommend it so you can get in here and make any adjustments to your screws. I would strongly suggest you put these on after your drawer front is fastened in place and you have the gaps the way you like it. Mount these on after the fact. If you were to try to put this on when your sink is already in place, you have yourself a world of hurt. So you want to make sure you're installing this before countertops and sinks go on so you can access the entire inside of the cabinet and do what you have to do.
Alright, so I'm going to put these on, come back and show you the completed installation. Okay, so to summarize, we showed you how to put the brackets on and all that. The only new step we did is mounted these. And as an exit to this video, I wanted to talk about hardware. When you go to mount hardware for inset, I strongly suggest that you do either one center pull or if you do a pull on either side, recognize this. Let's pretend I'm on the front pulling on one side. Your drawer front's going to clunk in that opening. It has to be opened smoothly from the center and then you'll get a clean opening.
But because that drawer front is inside the front frame, if you just try to pull it open from one side or the other or you get your hand twisted when you pull it from the center knob, it's going to bind. This is why we're not a big fan of these for inset applications. You do have to be
very careful with the installation. Make sure your gaps are correct and make sure you're pulling this cleanly from the center so you get that nice opening action. If you have any questions, contact your cabinet coach. They can walk you through it. You may find some aftermarket items. The only one we sell through our offering is this one. But you can find other soap tilt trays like this.
Some have stainless steel trays. Look at the installation on that and see if you can find some that are more appropriate for inset application. You can make this work. You just gotta make sure you're very careful with your gapping. So we hope this helped and again give your cabinet coach a call if you have any questions at all. Thanks for watching.
