Video Transcript
[Music] hey everybody Brian from the cabinet joint here today we're talking about our wall hung vanity we have a series of wall hung vanities that range from a single door um you can hinge it left or right there's a double door with an upright Center style um there is a uh drawer base that has two drawers above and below you know one above one below so there's a bunch that you can pick from they range from 18 to 24 High we can all the way up to 48 wide on some of them so check the catalog for all the specs on each individual box they all assemble much the same so we're only just going to focus on the assembly today not the actual features and benefits of the cabinet you're going to ask me right away well why does this one have four drawers the customer in this case we're building this one here in our shop in gettsburg they did a custom front frame where they wanted two false drawers above and then two drawers below um so we fit the cabinet up accordingly but I wanted to show you how the assembly goes so um these things what you have to note about them is the assembly is very different than any other cabinet as you'll see when we get into it it uses these um brackets to the back like a 2x4 bracket that come along with the cabinet box and that's and it's actually dovetailed in the cabinet back is dovetailed into the cabinet side so the assembly is All In Reverse the reason being you're supporting this cabinet to the wall and there's nothing below it to suspend the cabinet on like a like a toe kick or anything like that so this cabinet is literally hanging off the wall with it and all the weight of its granite and sink bowl so these are very very Stout in the way they're built and you do lose about an inch and a half of space internally because the cabinet back has to come forward to allow that 2x4 brace to be mounted to the back so you'll see all that during the assembly just trying to point out that these are built differently than any other cabinet we have so let's get into the assembly itself and at the end if you have any further questions just call your cabinet coach they'll be happy to help you out let's get started okay let's get started on our wall hung vanity assembly uh couple points I want to make first of all standard assembly tools that we show in all of our videos rubber mallet or a dead blow whichever you prefer a pencil you might need that for marking scribe lines a wet rag for your glue um a bottle of glue tight Bond 2 is our favorite but you can use tight Bond 3 it's got a little more of an open working time and it's waterproof if you if you're concerned about that um and then we got our bosted stapler with 1in staples you can use up to an inch and a quarter nothing longer than that or you risk um the barbs on the Staples starting to shank out into your cabinet interior in terms of box Parts uh the wall hung vanities are a little bit different than any other cabinet we offer uh typically we have an assembly that starts with into the front frame left and right sides top and bottom and the back goes on because the back on a wall hung vanity is fastened to the wall and the vanity can pull away because it's not supported below it's not sitting on the ground it's wall hung so it's meant to be a freestanding like a floating vanity we want that cabinet as secure as possible to the wall so the cabinet back is actually dovetailed to the cabinet sides and then you have these thick kind of 2-in mounting blocks that go behind we'll show you in a minute so it's a little bit different starting with the fact that you do not begin with the front frame almost every other cabinet we offered except for some corners and some other Oddball ones you start with the front frame laying face down not the case we're going to move our front frame and put it off to the side instead we're going to grab one of our cabinet sides we'll call it the I guess it's the way you're looking at it's the right side and then I'm going to grab my cabinet back making sure my drawer brackets that already installed or oriented correctly I'm going to go ahead and run a bead of glue in my cabinet back oops open that up in my cabinet back dovetail remember the cabinet back is dovetail not DED so I slide this down in there I'm going to do the same thing with my other cabinet side except I want to start by putting the side on instead of the back so now I'm going to glue from the bottom up cuz I'm sliding the side onto the back okay now flip this onto its back and now we're going to put our top and bottom in which are going to go into this dado for the cabinet back so I'm going to grab my glue starting in the middle do a bead of glue halfway up okay I've got my um four side Dove Tails glued now here's where it's a little different you want to make sure your splines are up remember in every other video we show we say splines down because you're going into the front frame you're not doing that here I want finished surface in splines up and we line up our dovetails and put a bead of glue down here in our back dado and tap this in until it seats okay you'll know it seats when the cabinet um top or bottom is just sting standing a little bit proud of the cabinet sides actually a little vice versa the cabinet side is a little proud of the cabinet top or bottom so now I'm seated on that side I'm going to do the exact same thing over here for my cabinet bottom be to glue for the dado splines up finish side in and push this one down okay so now it looks just like a normal cabinet box in Reverse we're going to go ahead and put the front frame on and then our back brackets but you can see see how those ears stick way past that's where those wooden brackets will go in there to cover up once we've nailed the back on or pinned the back on those brackets will get screwed in place and that becomes your Anchor Point for mounting this box to the wall so I'm going to flip this back up on its back make sure everything's seated down real good now I take my front frame and just like any other cabinet we're going to glue the left the left and right shoulders got a little glue globu there the left and right shoulders on the frame as well as the outer for the top and bottom the outer edge so it doesn't squeeze to the inside of the cabinet and now we're going to flip it over and tap it on this is where you've got to be really careful if you're dealing with finished front frames because you don't want to be banging too hard on a finished frame but we're just going to line this up I'm using the palm of my [Music] hand we'll just get this to sit down now if you really want to get going with a rubber mallet you can kind of pad that with some foam or something and tap with your rubber mallet other option is flip this upside down if it's a finished frame make sure you're on a padded surface and you can just tap to make sure all your surfaces are tight remember your dead giveaway is you want to make sure you got a tight Gap at the bottom and your frames are nice and nested into that into that uh dado on either side so that completes the main box assembly now I'm going to go ahead and do what we normally do which is pins across where you can see these pre- drilled holes that's the dead center of your top and bottom I'm going to go along and put a staple on either side of all those holes then I've got to find the center of that dovetail and strike a line for my outer edge normally we would nail that and I may may still in this case it's to make a tight nice tight box but remember this is dovet tailed now this isn't your normal cabinet back that's sitting in a rabbit and has to be nailed tight to the cabinet side you are now fastened through that dovetail but just to make sure that glue binds real good I'm going to go through and put three or four pins on both sides by striking a line so let's start with these and show you how to put those on again line up this is going to be the dead center of the cabinet top and bottom one on either side so I've got my top and bottom nailed on now I want to find the center of that um dovetail cuz I do want to put some pins there there's a couple ways to do this if you want to use a square you can I'll show you that method just put your Square there find the Notch and the square that lines up with the center of the panel and follow it down or the way I like to do it is just use my finger as a guide and I'll just strike a line that way and now we're just going to put some three or four pins all along that line kind of hold that side on nice and tight to that dovetail again I I don't want to risk any chance of this cabinet peeling off the wall due to a loose juncture where the side meets the back okay so we're going to go ahead and put these back brackets on for the astute viewer you might have seen in our um intro we talked about these these were actually we pulled the wrong things these are Runners for oven cabinets for the appliance to sit on what you're really looking for is 2x4s and they'll run the entire stretch of the cabinet left to right and these should come with your cabinet these should have been provided by the manufacturer so these are going to set in there like that and then what we're going to do is come in through here with screws I'm going to use a nice cap screw so it's got a lot of meat so it won't pull out I'm going to come in this way so I have more material more screw SC in the 2x4 than I do in the halfin thick cabinet back so I'm going to run a series of them there and then because I don't have finished sides here I can come through with a couple in the ends if these are finished ends on your case you don't want to run a screw through a finished end but I'm going to go ahead and do that because these are not finished um but definitely you have to have a good series of them here and here along your cabinet backs so let me get that done and I'll show you how that looks [Music] [Music] okay I've got my back brackets on if I tip this up you can see got a series of screws in here and then in the end I put one in the end of each U 2x4 you can do two if you want but because I'm already anchored real tight right up here I just put one towards the bottom of each 2x4 um and there's the front of your cabinet as is typical on all of our assemblies we kind of tell you make sure you're level with your front frame and cabin sides here otherwise the box is going to dry up racked we don't want that and then of course the inside we want to make sure we use our wherever it went my wet rag with glue to wipe your glue out go to the inside of your cabinet make sure you get all the excess glue that might have squeo out to the finished surfaces of the inside of the cabinet get that all wiped up and you're pretty much done um again intent of this cabinet is to hang off the wall so make sure you're into good stud material and you use a very very long screw when you're installing this cabinet cuz remember you got 2 in here plus a/ inch of sheet rock so if you use a conventional three or 3 and 1/2 in installation screw you've only got a/ an inch to an inch of screw in the wall in the stud itself so make sure you use nice long screws uh to Anchor these to the wall with a big head on them a big cap so it can't pull through the plywood once you put granite in a sink and a faucet on this and it's all wanting to peel off the wall how tight you mount this to the wall and how tight you make this back structure during your assembly is critical so we hope this helped if you have any questions always call your cabinet coach they'll be happy to walk you through it thanks for watching [Music] [Music] hey everybody Brian here from the cabinet joint we're going to talk about the base 2 drawer or roll out cabinet the Conestoga has cabinet came out about three or four years ago um the assembly I'm not going to get into assembling it because it assembles just like every other cabinet we have same warnings that if you're putting if this is an overlay job or I'm sorry rather an inset job you have to make sure you mount your brackets to the back of this Frame before you assemble the box as we mentioned that in every video and you'll see below a link to look at that how to do that Hardware fit up if it's overlay you can just build it like any other base cabinet what I want to really focus on here is the drawers and how to locate those drawer boxes in that opening because they're not sitting at the bottom they're sitting kind of three quarters of the way up so I want to talk about that a bit but the purpose of this cabinet is to give you the look of two full equal size drawers so you can picture a second drawer above you've got two big drawers this drawer front would affixed to only this bottom drawer so when you pull it you got four screws two on each side then I'll fix to this drawer front that goes up very high and covers that one and now you have this nice hidden drawer below so you've got two drawers behind one drawer front very cool very unique very usable you'll notice on these drawers this top drawer in both cases both openings have a top drawer and both of them have the scoop front hand pull you have three hand pull options one is that scoop front one is just a circle that's cut in the front of the Box the other one is an ellipse that's cut in the front of the Box this one has the traditional hand pull which I think looks the nicest but that's just my opinion um this top drawer I believe is four inches the bottom one I think is six so you're not quite as deep as you'd get with a full two drawer base cabinet this bottom drawer would be very deep you're getting rid of some of the depth of the bottom drawer to get a whole second drawer of usability very very cool think placemats extra Cutlery with a Cutlery divider in there or what have you very very helpful so now what I'm going to do is pull these drawers out and come back and show you how to locate this is the only unique part of this Cab in terms of the assembly or the upfit is how to locate the hardware for these two top drawers since it's kind of floating in space here so I'll be right back okay so before I get into the guts of this I do want to give you some sizes I forgot to mention earlier this cabinet's available 12 wide up to 39 wide and eight inch increments and um that that's totally standard to do it that way you can get it from 12 to 30 inches deep and three inch increments can't vary that because that's the length the door Glides and drawer boxes come and the height you can go from 31.5 to 34 and a half so you've got a you know three inch range of of height you can do as you make the cabinet smaller than the standard 34 and a half these openings get smaller at the same rate and of course you'll lose some drawer box height but you can get it shorter if you're trying to put this in a vanity application or some other lower than standard setting so all right with that in mind getting our Basics out of the way these Glides install the way our normal tandem Glides do if it's inset they're going to mount to the mounting brackets you already mounted per the other video I referenced if your overlay the Glide sit right on the front frame so this one and this one are easy and they give you the locator holes in the back of the cabinet so mounting the back brackets is not a problem but you don't know where this one and this one actually sit without leveling it or whatever if it's a standard 34.5 inch high cap I can tell you right now this one's seven and a half inches off the floor to the bottom of the Glide and this one's 22 and 5 8 to the bottom of the Glide from the floor of the cabinet and all I did to get that Dimension was transferred the bracket bottom on the back of the cabinet to the front so you could do the same math but I can save you that whether it's inset or overlay seven and a half to the bottom 22 and 5 8 to the bottom and you'll be level so hopefully that helps you and then at that point slide your drawer boxes in the way you normally would of fixing the drawer front for the door box is the standard way there's nothing tricky about this as a base cabinet it's like any other one you'd build if you have any questions give your cabinet coach a call 888-211-6482 and we appreciate you watching have a great day foreign
ChatGPT
ChatGPT
[Music] Hey everybody, Brian from the Cabinet Joint here. Today we're talking about our wall-hung vanity. We have a series of wall-hung vanities that range from a single door. You can hinge it left or right. There's a double door with an upright center style. There is a drawer base that has two drawers above and below, you know, one above, one below. So, there's a bunch that you can pick from. They range from 18 to 24 high. We can go all the way up to 48 wide on some of them. So, check the catalog for all the specs on each individual box. They all assemble much the same, so we're only just going to focus on the assembly today, not the actual features and benefits of the cabinet. You're going to ask me right away, "Well, why does this one have four drawers?" The customer in this case, we're building this one here in our shop in Gettysburg. They did a custom front frame where they wanted two false drawers above and then two drawers below. So, we fit the cabinet up accordingly, but I wanted to show you how the assembly goes. So, these things, what you have to note about them is the assembly is very different than any other cabinet, as you'll see when we get into it. It uses these brackets to the back like a 2x4 bracket that come along with the cabinet box. And that's, and it's actually dovetailed in. The cabinet back is dovetailed into the cabinet side, so the assembly is all in reverse. The reason being you're supporting this cabinet to the wall and there's nothing below it to suspend the cabinet on like a toe kick or anything like that. So, this cabinet is literally hanging off the wall with it and all the weight of its granite and sink bowl. So, these are very, very stout in the way they're built. And you do lose about an inch and a half of space internally because the cabinet back has to come forward to allow that 2x4 brace to be mounted to the back. So, you'll see all that during the assembly. Just trying to point out that these are built differently than any other cabinet we have. So, let's get into the assembly itself and at the end if you have any further questions, just call your cabinet coach. They'll be happy to help you out. Let's get started. Okay, let's get started on our wall-hung vanity assembly. A couple points I want to make first of all, standard assembly tools that we show in all of our videos: rubber mallet or a dead blow, whichever you prefer, a pencil, you might need that for marking scribe lines, a wet rag for your glue, a bottle of glue, Tight Bond 2 is our favorite, but you can use Tight Bond 3, it's got a little more of an open working time and it's waterproof if you're concerned about that, and then we got our Bosted stapler with 1-inch staples. You can use up to an inch and a quarter, nothing longer than that or you risk the barbs on the staples starting to shank out into your cabinet interior. In terms of box parts, the wall-hung vanities are a little bit different than any other cabinet we offer. Typically, we have an assembly that starts with into the front frame, left and right sides, top and bottom, and the back goes on because the back on a wall-hung vanity is fastened to the wall and the vanity can pull away because it's not supported below, it's not sitting on the ground, it's wall-hung. So, it's meant to be a freestanding like a floating vanity. We want that cabinet as secure as possible to the wall, so the cabinet back is actually dovetailed to the cabinet sides, and then you have these thick kind of 2-in mounting blocks that go behind, we'll show you in a minute. So, it's a little bit different starting with the fact that you do not begin with the front frame. Almost every other cabinet we offer, except for some corners and some other oddball ones, you start with the front frame laying face down. Not the case. We're going to move our front frame and put it off to the side. Instead, we're going to grab one of our cabinet sides. We'll call it the, I guess it's the way you're looking at it's the right side. And then I'm going to grab my cabinet back, making sure my drawer brackets that are already installed are oriented correctly. I'm going to go ahead and run a bead of glue in my cabinet back. Oops, open that up in my cabinet back dovetail. Remember, the cabinet back is dovetailed not dead. So, I slide this down in there. I'm going to do the same thing with my other cabinet side except I want to start by putting the side on instead of the back. So now, I'm going to glue from the bottom up because I'm sliding the side onto the back. Okay, now flip this onto its back. And now we're going to put our top and bottom in which are going to go into this dado for the cabinet back. So, I'm going to grab my glue starting in the middle, do a bead of glue halfway up. Okay, I've got my four side dovetails glued. Now, here's where it's a little different. You want to make sure your splines are up. Remember in every other video we show, we say splines down because you're going into the front frame. You're not doing that here. I want the finished surface in, splines up, and we line up our dovetails and put a bead of glue down here in our back dado and tap this in until it seats. Okay, you'll know it seats when the cabinet top or bottom is just standing a little bit proud of the cabinet sides. Actually, a little vice versa, the cabinet side is a little proud of the cabinet top or bottom. So now, I'm seated on that side. I'm going to do the exact same thing over here for my cabinet bottom. Bead of glue for the dado, splines up, finish side in, and push this one down. Okay, so now it looks just like a normal cabinet box in reverse. We're going to go ahead and put the front frame on and then our back brackets, but you can see, see how those ears stick way past. That's where those wooden brackets will go in there to cover up once we've nailed the back on or pinned the back on, those brackets will get screwed in place and that becomes your anchor point for mounting this box to the wall. So, I'm going to flip this back up on its back. Make sure everything's seated down real good. Now, I take my front frame and just like any other cabinet, we're going to glue the left, the left and right shoulders, got a little glue globu there, the left and right shoulders on the frame as well as the outer for the top and bottom, the outer edge so it doesn't squeeze to the inside of the cabinet. And now we're going to flip it over and tap it on. This is where you've got to be really careful if you're dealing with finished front frames because you don't want to be banging too hard on a finished frame. But we're just going to line this up. I'm using the palm of my hand. We'll just get this to sit down. Now, if you really want to get going with a rubber mallet, you can kind of pad that with some foam or something and tap with your rubber mallet. Other option is flip this upside down. If it's a finished frame, make sure you're on a padded surface and you can just tap to make sure all your surfaces are tight. Remember, your dead giveaway is you want to make sure you got a tight gap at the bottom and your frames are nice and nested into that dado on either side. So that completes the main box assembly. Now, I'm going to go ahead and do what we normally do, which is pins across where you can see these pre-drilled holes. That's the dead center of your top and bottom. I'm going to go along and put a staple on either side of all those holes. Then I've got to find the center of that dovetail and strike a line for my outer edge. Normally, we would nail that and I may still in this case. It's to make a tight, nice tight box. But remember, this is dovetailed now. This isn't your normal cabinet back that's sitting in a rabbit and has to be nailed tight to the cabinet side. You are now fastened through that dovetail. But just to make sure that glue binds real good, I'm going to go through and put three or four pins on both sides by striking a line. So let's start with these and show you how to put those on again. Line up. This is going to be the dead center of the cabinet top and bottom, one on either side. So I've got my top and bottom nailed on. Now I want to find the center of that dovetail because I do want to put some pins there. There's a couple of ways to do this. If you want to use a square, you can. I'll show you that method. Just put your square there. Find the notch and the square that lines up with the center of the panel and follow it down. Or the way I like to do it is just use my finger as a guide and I'll just strike a line that way. And now we're just going to put some three or four pins all along that line kind of hold that side on nice and tight to that dovetail. Again, I don't want to risk any chance of this cabinet peeling off the wall due to a loose juncture where the side meets the back. Okay, so we're going to go ahead and put these back brackets on. For the astute viewer, you might have seen in our intro we talked about these. These were actually, we pulled the wrong things. These are runners for oven cabinets for the appliance to sit on. What you're really looking for is 2x4s and they'll run the entire stretch of the cabinet left to right and these should come with your cabinet. These should have been provided by the manufacturer, so these are going to set in there like that. And then what we're going to do is come in through here with screws. I'm going to use a nice cap screw so it's got a lot of meat so it won't pull out. I'm going to come in this way so I have more material, more screw sc in the 2x4 than I do in the half-inch thick cabinet back. So I'm going to run a series of them there. And then because I don't have finished sides here, I can come through with a couple in the ends. If these are finished ends on your case, you don't want to run a screw through a finished end. But I'm going to go ahead and do that because these are not finished, but definitely you have to have a good series of them here and here along your cabinet backs. So let me get that done and I'll show you how that looks [Music] [Music] Okay, I've got my back brackets on. If I tip this up you can see, got a series of screws in here and then in the end I put one in the end of each U 2x4. You can do two if you want, but because I'm already anchored real tight right up here I just put one towards the bottom of each 2x4. And there's the front of your cabinet. As is typical on all of our assemblies, we kind of tell you make sure you're level with your front frame and cabin sides here otherwise the box is going to dry up racked we don't want that and then of course the inside we want to make sure we use our wherever it went my wet rag with glue to wipe your glue out go to the inside of your cabinet make sure you get all the excess glue that might have squeo out to the finished surfaces of the inside of the cabinet get that all wiped up and you're pretty much done um again intent of this cabinet is to hang off the wall so make sure you're into good stud material and you use a very very long screw when you're installing this cabinet cuz remember you got 2 in here plus a/ inch of sheet rock so if you use a conventional three or 3 and 1/2 in installation screw you've only got a/ an inch to an inch of screw in the wall in the stud itself so make sure you use nice long screws uh to Anchor these to the wall with a big head on them a big cap so it can't pull through the plywood once you put granite in a sink and a faucet on this and it's all wanting to peel off the wall how tight you mount this to the wall and how tight you make this back structure during your assembly is critical so we hope this helped if you have any questions always call your cabinet coach they'll be happy to walk you through it thanks for watching [Music] [Music] Hey everybody, Brian here from the Cabinet Joint. We're going to talk about the base 2 drawer or roll out cabinet the Conestoga has cabinet came out about three or four years ago. The assembly I'm not going to get into assembling it because it assembles just like every other cabinet we have, same warnings that if you're putting, if this is an overlay job or I'm sorry rather an inset job you have to make sure you mount your brackets to the back of this Frame before you assemble the box as we mentioned that in every video and you'll see below a link to look at that how to do that Hardware fit up. If it's overlay you can just build it like any other base cabinet. What I want to really focus on here is the drawers and how to locate those drawer boxes in that opening because they're not sitting at the bottom they're sitting kind of three quarters of the way up. So, I want to talk about that a bit but the purpose of this cabinet is to give you the look of two full equal size drawers so you can picture a second drawer above.
You've got two big drawers. This drawer front would be affixed to only this bottom drawer, so when you pull it, you've got four screws, two on each side. Then it'll be fixed to this drawer front that goes up very high and covers that one, and now you have this nice hidden drawer below. So you've got two drawers behind one drawer front—very cool, very unique, very usable. You'll notice on these drawers, this top drawer in both cases, both openings have a top drawer, and both of them have the scoop front hand pull. You have three hand pull options. One is that scoop front, one is just a circle that's cut in the front of the box, the other one is an ellipse that's cut in the front of the box. This one has the traditional hand pull, which I think looks the nicest, but that's just my opinion. Um, this top drawer, I believe, is four inches, the bottom one, I think is six, so you're not quite as deep as you'd get with a full two-drawer base cabinet. This bottom drawer would be very deep. You're getting rid of some of the depth of the bottom drawer to get a whole second drawer of usability—very, very cool. Think placemats, extra cutlery with a cutlery divider in there, or what have you—very, very helpful. So now what I'm going to do is pull these drawers out and come back and show you how to locate. This is the only unique part of this cabinet in terms of the assembly or the upfit is how to locate the hardware for these two top drawers since it's kind of floating in space here. So I'll be right back. Okay, so before I get into the guts of this, I do want to give you some sizes. I forgot to mention earlier, this cabinet's available 12 wide up to 39 wide and eight-inch increments, and um, that that's totally standard to do it that way. You can get it from 12 to 30 inches deep and three-inch increments. Can't vary that because that's the length the door glides and drawer boxes come, and the height you can go from 31.5 to 34 and a half, so you've got, you know, three-inch range of height you can do as you make the cabinet smaller than the standard 34 and a half, these openings get smaller at the same rate, and of course, you'll lose some drawer box height, but you can get it shorter if you're trying to put this in a vanity application or some other lower than standard setting. So, all right, with that in mind, getting our basics out of the way, these glides install the way our normal tandem glides do. If it's inset, they're going to mount to the mounting brackets you already mounted per the other video I referenced. If you're overlay, the glide sits right on the front frame, so this one and this one are easy and they give you the locator holes in the back of the cabinet, so mounting the back brackets is not a problem, but you don't know where this one and this one actually sit without leveling it or whatever. If it's a standard 34.5-inch high cap, I can tell you right now, this one's seven and a half inches off the floor to the bottom of the glide, and this one's 22 and 5/8 to the bottom of the glide from the floor of the cabinet, and all I did to get that dimension was transfer the bracket bottom on the back of the cabinet to the front, so you could do the same math, but I can save you that. Whether it's inset or overlay, seven and a half to the bottom, 22 and 5/8 to the bottom, and you'll be level. So hopefully that helps you, and then at that point, slide your drawer boxes in the way you normally would, fixing the drawer front for the door box is the standard way, there's nothing tricky about this as a base cabinet, it's like any other one you'd build. If you have any questions, give your cabinet coach a call 888-211-6482, and we appreciate you watching. Have a great day. [Music]
