Video Transcript
Introduction
It's a glorious day here at Cabinet Joint. I'm Justin, and in today's video I'm going to be showing you how to install a wall spice pull-out.
These come in two different sizes. There's a 5" unit, and then this here is the 8" unit. The installation process is going to be the same.
This installation process is pretty straightforward. It comes with instructions, but they're pretty basic—pretty watered down. They weren't all that helpful. So, this video should get you there.
Clamps will be pretty essential for this process because you're going to be clamping inside the box and then installing screws from underneath the cabinet.
With all that being said, let's get into the tools that you're going to need for this project.
Tools & Supplies
The tools you will need are your standard drill and driver. I have a number two Phillips head as well as a self-centering bit. I have a ⅜" ratchet. You can use a ⅜" wrench as well. I have a Phillips head screwdriver, some painter's tape, a combination square, a tape measure, and a pencil.
I have a ³⁄₃₂" spacer. You don't have to have this specific one—you can cut yourself just a ³⁄₃₂" piece of wood.
I also have clamps. I have one that needs to be over 30" to be able to clamp this, which you'll see later on. Then I have two smaller clamps here. They can be any size to clamp the door to the pull-out itself.
Other than that, I have these bumpers that came with the pull-out. As you can see, I already have it installed here. It will come with screws to attach your door to your pull-out, as well as to install it via the bottom of the cabinet. Those screws all come included with the pull-out.
This cabinet here has a shelf as well. You can talk to your cabinet coach to get that if you want this particular layout.
With all that being said, we are ready to get into the installation.
Wall Spice Pull-Out Cabinet Installation
If you have an overlay application, you can install these white bumpers. Unfortunately, for inset, they do not fit because they would be in the way of your door.
We started this installation off by finding the center of the opening. Once we made that mark, we took our combination square and extended that line into the interior of the cabinet.
Then we went to our pull-out, found the front, measured to the center of that, and made a mark. Then we stuck it inside the cabinet and lined up those center marks.
Instead of trying to measure and figure all of that out, I just took the door and gently pushed back the pull-out until the door sat a little bit more recessed. You don't want it quite flush because, with the adjustment, you're able to push the door out, but you're never able to take it back in.
So, I like to set it about ¹⁄₁₆" to ⅛" recessed inside.
After I had the door where I wanted it, I took it off, made sure everything was still lined up with the center, and then took my clamp and clamped the top of the pull-out down all the way to the bottom of the cabinet.
I took my cabinet over the edge of my table and put two screws in from underneath. Once those two screws were in, I tilted the cabinet back and put the other two screws underneath.
Tilting it back up, I made sure that everything slid correctly as it was supposed to, and now I'm ready to install the door.
First, I need to loosen the metal brackets. On this pull-out, using a ⅜" ratchet, I just loosened those up. As you can see, they are loose and adjust sideways.
Once those are all loosened up and are out from the center of the pull-out, I can install the door. If you have an overlay cabinet, they will extend further. If you have an inset cabinet, they will not go past the opening at all.
What I ended up doing was measuring the distance from the top of the pull-out to the bottom of the top rail. That measurement was 11".
This is where that ³⁄₃₂" spacer comes in handy. I just put that spacer at the top of my door, hooked my tape measure on that, measured down, and marked 11" on both sides.
You don't have to do it this way, but by having a ³⁄₃₂" spacer, I didn't need to worry about doing any addition or subtraction. I could just mark exactly where it was.
Because this pull-out doesn't have any vertical adjustment, you really need to make sure that this measurement is on point.
Now you have to do a little Houdini act as you install the door because you're not able to take the pull-out out.
What I did was line up those measurements and take my small clamps. Once I had the top lined up, I had the door shifted all the way over to one side and then clamped it in place vertically, lining my door up with those marks.
I had my door all the way to the right first. With it extended all the way to one side, I clamped the door in place. I took my self-centering bit and screwed those metal brackets onto the door.
Then I took those clamps off, shifted it all the way to the other side, and did the exact same thing.
It's a really tight fit with your drill because this pull-out doesn't extend all that far out. So, just be careful that you're not marking up your cabinet or anything like that.
I did the exact same step here on the other side with drilling and screwing, and now my door is fastened.
I'm going to set it in and make sure everything looks correct. Vertically, it looks right, but I need to adjust it side to side.
Before I tighten any of those nuts on the back of the front of the pull-out, I have left-to-right adjustability.
Now, if you look, my corner is in far too much. So, in order to bump that out, there is a Phillips head screw inside, right next to your bolt.
When you tighten that screw, it will push the door out. When you loosen that screw and tighten the nut, it will also pull it closer.
In this case, I want to push it out, so I am tightening that screw while making sure that nut is loose enough so I can extend that corner of the door out.
I had the opposite problem on my top left corner. I needed to pull it further in. So, all I did was loosen that screw all the way and then tighten that nut as far as it would go.
The Finished Product & Summary
With that shelf installed, all the components are in.
Something to keep in mind: this is not a soft-close mechanism, but it does have enough resistance that it's really hard to slam shut.
With the pull-out maxing out at 26¼", that means if you have a taller cabinet, there's going to be extra room. If you'd like, there's also the option to put two more railings on the very top of your pull-out if you want some added spice organization.
As far as installs go, this is a pretty easy installation. Keep in mind that there is no vertical adjustment on these slides, so make sure you nail those measurements as you are putting that door on.
Other than that, the other thing to keep in mind is that these come in fixed sizes. We can't widen them. We can't make them any taller. They are fixed at both 5" and 8" wide, as well as 26¼" tall.
I hope this video was helpful as you install your wall spice pull-out.
If you have any questions, you can reach out to your cabinet coach, or you can call us at 888-211-6482.
Thank you for watching. Have a great day.
