How to easily install base cabinet doors straight and level (overlay application)

Discussion

One thought on “Create an Easy Door Mounting Jig For Base Cabinets

  1. For the 1/2” overlay cabinets I clamped a length of 1” aluminum angle to the bottom of the front frame level with the bottom edge to keep the door parallel to the bottom of the front frame and consistently 1” from the bottom edge. It works well with the cabinet lying on its back and also makes a nice “shelf” to rest and align the door on if the cabinet is upright. Aluminum is relatively light and smooth compared to steel but to further lessen the likelihood of damaging the face frame surface, cover the contact surface of the angle with tape (duct tape works well and stays put).

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Video Transcript

One question we're getting asked quite a bit is how we mount base cabinet doors without the door falling below the bottom of the face frame on full overlay cabinets. Keep in mind on Conestoga’s inch and 3/8, an inch and 1/4 overlay, they really want the door level with the bottom of the frame.
What we suggest doing is just taking some of your toe kick material or any 4 inch high material and just make a little ‘L’ jig like this. Wedge it underneath the cabinet bottom, so it's tight to the floor of the work surface. That will be the surface on which your door rests. When you go to put your door on, it doesn't matter where this really is, but when you go to put your door on, your door is now held to the bottom of that front frame.

When you mount your hinge in there, the door is sitting dead level with the bottom of the box. That's a handy jig you can make at home. Then you just install your screws in the door the same way you would normally, but it's a great way to keep that door from falling out of adjustment. Some folks will also tack a piece of ledger board underneath on all the cabinets. Then you can go ahead and put your doors and just knock that ledger board back off. Just a handy tip for you.

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