Some things get better with age, like our process on how to mount a drawer front to a drawer box. Watch and learn the new method with Brian to save time and frustration on your RTA assembly. Feel free to direct additional questions to your Cabinet Coach or visit to learn more.

Video Transcript

[Music] Hey everybody, Brian from the Cabinet Joint here. I cannot believe it's 2024, and we have been shooting various assembly and product videos for going on 11 years now. So when I look at the old ones and see how young I look, it's kind of embarrassing. But what we're realizing as we evolve our practice of shooting videos is that we've got some old ones out there that probably aren't as accurate as we'd like them to be. One of our most popular videos is the one you're looking at now: how to attach a drawer front to a drawer box. In the old method we used, trying to make it homeowner-friendly, we used double back 3M tape where you'd put some tape on the front of the drawer box and stick the drawer front on once you got it lined up and shut the drawer, and then run your screws in the back. Not a bad way to do it, but as we've evolved our practices in the shop and learned our customer base better, we realize our homeowner clientele is a pretty capable group of people. So we want to show you the way we do it in the shop. It gives you a faster result, and you don't get that crumb catcher on the back of the drawer between the drawer box and the drawer front because that 3M sticky tape was maybe a sixteenth or a thirty-second wide, so you did have a little bit of space between the drawer front and drawer box. So we're going to go ahead and show you the new method, and what it relies on is some known dimensions depending on whether you're using inset cabinetry, which is what this is, full overlay, or partial overlay drawer fronts. That's going to dictate which dimensions I give you or which ones you use that I'm about to give you in the rest of the video. And it relies heavily on the adjustability that's built into the Blum hardware. So you've got the left and right adjustability with the wheels, you have up-down adjustability with the little levers under here, and you've got some in-out adjustability. So just pay attention to the video and really focus on the part that is your overlay or inset. Those are the dimensions you're going to want to use. So let's get started, and because this is maybe a little more of a complicated video, you can slow it down, you can rewind it, whatever you got to do. But remember, your cabinet coach is always there to help walk you through it. Let's get started, everybody.

Okay, everybody, before we get started on showing you this new method of installing a drawer front on our drawer box, I want to kind of emphasize why we're taking this new approach. What we're doing is we're starting with known dimensions depending on whether the job is inset, full overlay, or partial overlay. We're starting with knowns based on us knowing where the doors and drawer fronts sit on the front frame. The old method of sticking it on is probably more homeowner-friendly to use double back tape. I'm going to say it's probably more homeowner-friendly, but we don't like the end result as much. And now that we've evolved and we feel like our customer base is evolving, we like this approach better. So again, it starts with knowns, and it's predicated on our knowledge that these drawer boxes, glides, and the orange clips are adjustable left-right, up-down, and then we can tilt them from the back. With all those adjustable functions of this, we can null out or fine-tune our adjustment once we put the drawer front on the drawer box, put it into the opening, we can fine-tune things with the adjustments that already come native on the door glide hardware. So I'm going to start with inset; this is an inset job. So I'm going to show you how we do it on inset, and then I'm going to come back and extrapolate some measurements that you would use if your job happens to be full overlay or partial overlay. Okay, so on inset, every door and drawer front is always inset in the opening. So the gaps are always the same. When I say gap, I'm talking about the distance from the bottom of the drawer box to that opening, it's always the same, and it's an inch. So what we do is we take our tape measure, you're going to need a couple of tools, tape measure, a pencil, I'll get into some screws in a minute, and a couple of drills, one that's got a bit in it to drive whatever screw you're driving, and one with a 7/64 drill bit or something in that neighborhood, something close to that. And really, the screw or the drill bit you use is determined by what screw you're using and the diameter of it. So you just pick your drill bit based on your screw size. So what I'm going to do on all my inset is I'm going to take a measurement of an inch up and strike a line. I already struck my line there, I'm not going to make you watch me do that. And then I just use my finger, you can use a straight edge if you want, but I'm just going to make a line on the bottom of the drawer front. And you're going to say, "Well, why are you doing that? You won't see the line, the drawer box covers it." And while I'm doing that on inset, you've got to be very careful. This drawer front can look the same front and back, but you'll notice that there's a bias on the edge profile. It's kind of slanted backwards, the narrower part, this side, in this case, is the back of the drawer. So you want to make sure you're not going to drive the screws into the front of your drawer front, very easy to do when it's a slab like this job is. So face down, drawer face down, I've got my half-inch line, and now what I'm going to do is take my drawer box, set it on the drawer front, and line that line up with the bottom edge of my drawer box, left and right, because it's inset, the drawer front and the drawer box are almost the exact same width. I can just catch a fingernail on either side. So you can eyeball it, you don't need a jig or a tape measure to get the left and right, just line it up so I can run my thumbnail on both sides equally, and I'm lined up on my line at the bottom. Once I have that, I'm going to turn the box around off-camera here, and I'll show you how to put the actual screws in.

Okay, so all I've done here, folks, is spun this whole arrangement around so you can see inside. I've still got my bottom of my drawer box lined up with my half-inch mark, and I've got my edges lined up so I've just got my fingernail. Now what we're going to do here is take a screw, and what we like, we'll put a picture of the box of screws that we use on-screen for you. It's made by GRK, you can get them in the hardware aisle, no problem. It's an inch and a quarter long. What we like about it is it's got a big flat cap head on it so you can't overdrive the screw by accident and have it countersink into the wood and then by accident poke the screw tip through the front of your drawer box or drawer front. You want this to bury itself and still be well inside your drawer front so you don't come through your finished surface. So inch and a quarter with a cap screw, it has a nice hard-stopping point. Now what I'm going to stress here is this is a slab drawer front so I can put my screws anywhere I want in here. I like to put them right up in the edges in the corners because that will clear any knobs or handles. If I've got a big cup pull or a bar pull in here, I won't have those screws for my hardware interfere with my mounting screws I'm about to put in. If it's a five-piece drawer front like a matching Albany drawer front with a floating center panel, especially if it's full overlay, you've got to get those screws way up here in the corner because you want to get the screw into the framing of the door, not the panel. Okay, so be very careful if you're doing full overlay and it's a five-piece drawer front that you want to get those screws way up in the corner. Still going to do that on inset, but because the drawer is this wide, my framing is in here and I can put the screw anywhere in here, and I'll catch framing. Not the case with overlay, the framing on the drawer front is hanging way out here, so we've got to be very careful. But I have a slab and I have inset, so this is pretty straightforward, and I'm going to do four screws, one on top. What we don't want to do is we don't want to overdrive. So make sure you have this screw bit drill bit set so that you won't go all the way through the front of the drawer box or the drawer front rather. So we put a screw there, and I'll probably just set one on each side, and then put a screw in, and then we can do the others. Alright, grab a screw, we'll get some close-ups of this operation. Tighten that one up. This will just keep everything from moving, and now I can come back, and nothing will shift on me, I can come back and do my second holes and put it in, so I'll do that off-camera, and then I'll show you how it goes in and how we adjust the drawer to get our gaps just right.

Okay, to summarize where we're at, I've got my fingernail, I'm inset so I have my fingernail of width on both sides, I'm honoring my half-inch between the bottom of the drawer front and the bottom of the drawer box back here, got my screws in, and now what I want to kind of focus on is the adjustability when I put this drawer in. It's probably not going to fit exact; we're inset, so I've got to dial in my 3/32 gaps all the way around. There are two little levers on your drawer front or your drawer brackets here, these orange release levers. When you push it back, there's a little elevator here that raises the drawer front, so you want to move these in at the same rate, and you can dial your elevation in that way. So we're going to start with these all the way pulled forward, which means the drawer is at its lowest point, and then we can raise it from there. These wheels here on the left and right side of the orange cams move the drawer box left and right, so if I notice that my gap is different on this side than on that side, I can spin the wheels and I can move the whole drawer over left and right. And then on the back of the drawer, if I notice for some reason that my drawer front is not sitting at a perfect plane, maybe it's a little bit in at the top and a little out at the bottom or flush at the bottom, I can tip it so that the back of the drawer lifts up, and now I'm flush at the top and the bottom, and that adjuster is back here, it's a little gray dial. And you maybe can see it in the camera, you can see the little hook that is in the back of your drawer box that's going up and down. So we're going to start with it all the way at the down position, which is all the way out, that's the way it comes to you, and you can raise that if need be. We rarely have to touch those. So what I'm going to do, I haven't tested this yet, but I'm sure it's going to go in, we're going to go ahead and put this in the way we normally do, slide our drawer box in until it clicks. So we're clicked in, she opens nice, and I'm not sure if the camera's picking it up, but I'm tight at the bottom and I have a pretty big gap up here. Okay, I'll see if cameraman Nick can get a little closer on that. Got a big gap up here, and I'm almost tight at the bottom, that's by design, we want to have the bottom of the drawer kind of towards the bottom, so now we can adjust it the way we want. You can always go up, you can't go down. So I'm going to open this up, I'm going to slide my adjusters on left and right, I'm going to push them in a notch or two, and now you can see I'm a little high here and just about perfect there. So I'm going to back this one out one click, and now I'm dialing it in. Still a little tight at the bottom, I can go up a little more, oh, getting much better here. Okay, so now I like my top and bottom gap, now I've got to work on my left-to-right gap. I'm a little tighter here than I am here, so I can spin the adjusters, you can see I've closed this gap up, so you can just dial it in that way any way you want. I'm going to put the other two drawers on and then come back and show you how to do overlay, and it's going to be much the same, but there are some different dimensions you have to work with on overlay and partial overlay than on inset. It's not quite as straightforward, so I'll be back in a minute.

Okay, so I've got all three of my inset drawer fronts on. Before I put this top one in, there's something I didn't mention before on the adjustability: these tracks slide in and out. There's a little mounting screw right here, and that's in a separate video. A little mounting screw right here, when you loosen that up, the track will slide forward and after by an inch. What you want to do is line the front of that up with the very front of the first hole you see, the first open space here, and that's about the right dimension. But if you put your drawer in and you see that it's sticking proud or it's recessed in, you just got to move the whole track, both sides, move the track in or out until you get that flush. But again, just get it till you see the half-moon of that first hole just peek

ing through, and that's usually the right setting that we found in the shop. So I'm going to put this last one in, and then we'll go ahead and talk about overlay and partial overlay. We've got a mock-up here. I don't have any overlay jobs in the shop, but I'm going to talk you through the dimensions.

Alright, so what we're going to go over now is full overlay and a quarter-full overlay cabinet door drawer fronts on your drawer box. Okay, so remember, inset, you had just a little bit hanging over. On full overlay, you're going to have a lot of drawer front hanging past, and you're going to have a distance below each drawer box to get it right. So I'm going to start with the bottom drawer. It's different on the bottom drawer than it is on the top drawers above, reason being, on the bottom drawer for full overlay, the drawer front hangs all the way over this piece of framing and is flush with the front frame. Then these ones only hang past by a quarter of an inch. Okay, so different dimensions for this than the other two. On your bottom drawer, it's 2 inches from here to the bottom of the drawer front, 2 inches on every base cabinet except desk bases. Desk bases are a little weird because they have a little short flush toe. It's an inch and three-quarters on desk bases, but every other base cabinet, it's 2 inches. An inch and 7/16 from the side of the drawer to the side of the drawer front. Okay, you're going to have a lot of material in your drawer front hanging past in 7/16. If you want, you can make a little block of wood and use it to line up the edge of the drawer front with the side of the drawer box. If your piece of wood is an inch and 7/16, you can just slap it there, and when you're level here or you're even here and you're against the side of your drawer, you know you're good. So I'm going to run through them again: bottom drawer is 2 inches, inch and 7/16, inch and 7/16. These two are 11/16, 11/16 on the bottom, and the same inch and 7/16 left and right. The only time on full overlay it gets a little crazy is if, say, you had a blind corner cabinet or another better example would be a vanity cabinet where you're sharing doors and drawer fronts with one vertical style and I got a drawer here and a door here or a drawer and a drawer, your two drawers on the top are sharing an inch and a half piece of framing, and so you're going to want to honor the inch and 7/16 on one side, but it's going to hang past a lot less on the side that shares that piece of framing. It'll make more sense when you run into the situation. Your cabinet coach can walk you through it. That's full overlay. Partial overlay is a cinch, got to read my dimensions on that one, we don't do much of it. Partial overlay is an inch from the bottom, so this is 1 inch instead of 2 that it was on the full overlay. It's 1 inch, your left and right sides are 11/16 and 11/16. Okay, again, one inch on the bottom, 11/16, 11/16, and you can do the same thing, make a little 11/16 spacer to make sure you're lining your sides up, and the process of screwing the drawer box to the drawer front is identical. Just remember what I mentioned earlier: if you're doing full overlay and your drawer front is hanging way past, you don't have much framing to catch. So you're going to want to be right into the corner here at an angle to catch that framing and not crack your panel. Okay, it should be obvious when you're doing it, but you just want to make sure you're catching good solid wood on an angle on those framing pieces. And that's about it. I don't think it's as easy as the sticky tape method was, but it's the right way to do it, it's the way a cabinet shop would do it, probably, and you don't have that gap, that crumb catcher you get when you had that sticky tape in here that was holding the drawer box and the drawer front just slightly apart. So this is the way we do it in our shop, and we make jigs for it, and we can fly right through this video, probably made it look harder than it really is. Once you have those dimensions nailed, you'll just start cycling through your drawer fronts and drawer boxes pretty quickly. If you have any questions, call your cabinet coach. We'd love to hear from you. Thanks for watching, everybody. [Music]

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