Base cabinet assembly showing the installation of inset hinge brackets, how to read the cabinet label, etc.
What size nails are you using for your brad nailer to assemble the cabinets?
1.25″ See this video for more info on what is needed https://www.cabinetjoint.com/video-library/assembly-tools-materials-will-need-build-cabinet/
The assembly tools and materials video says 1″ brads. Should I get 1″ or 1.25″?
Either will work. Over the course of time, we have migrated to the longer 1.25″. For 1/2″ sides, 1″ is fine as the brad is only there to hold things until the glue sets. But, the 1.25″ we feel works better, so long as you are careful about holding the brad gun so as to not shoot the brad at an angle, thereby coming out inside the cabinet. 1″ is more forgiving of this. We have used 1″ many times when we run out of 1.25″ and not had a problem. Our assembler has actually begun moving towards a stapler using 1.25″ staples and likes them best. So, no wrong or right, it is what you prefer to use!
Hollywood is calling you Brian.
Learned a lot watching the videos. Bought cabinets for kitchen, island, laundry room & dining room. One thing I learned later, really need to install the drawer guide for inset doors & hinges for inset doors to the face frame before assembly.
I have some drawer guides to install in a small area that are going to be almost impossible now that the cabinets are assembled.
Wish this was mentioned on the “base cabinet assembly” video as once I felt comfortable after viewing this video assembled the cabinets and then started all the door & drawer assembly.
Like the cabinets, feel we got our monies worth & company has been wonderful assisting with issues that have arisen.
Is cabinet door to be centered vertically or dropped just a bit to accommodate crown molding?
Its really up to you. Here is the overlay guide for what Conestoga recommends, but you can hang the doors to suit your taste. https://www.cabinetjoint.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/11/OverlayExplanation.pdf
Great demo video. However, I think it would be helpful to note that on inset cabinetry the hinge brackets and the special hard plastic mounting brackets for the drawer glides should be installed on the back of the front frame before you assemble the cabinet.
Our newly released assembly videos now show this step. The video is much longer, but more explanatory. We are releasing new assembly videos for the all cabinets over time, but for now, we reshot about 10 or 12 of them and are editing and releasing as we can. I believe the video library now shows new videos for wall, base, base full door, base 4 drawer, Base 3 drawer equal height and Utility cabinets. More to follow.
Is there an option for a 3″ toe kick for the base cabinets?
I believe the toe kick is 4″ by default and I did not find the option to customize such height. Based on the installation video it looks as I could rip 1″ off the panels with a table saw and be fine without compromising anything. Of course, I would add 1″ to the cabinet height to reach my total target height.
No, only 4″. You would need to order the cabinet 1″ taller than needed and cut the cabinet side panels down before assembly.
The screws that come with the Blum Platemate only extend to a little over 2.5″ from the center. Did you have to change the screws to get to 3 1/8″?
On the newer one we bought, yes, we needed to switch out the screws.
I had to switch the stock screws in the PlateMate to M4 x 40mm screws and back them out a bit to make the 3-1/8″ dimension needed. Since the screws are loose in the jig, I added a drop of hot glue to the threads to hold the adjustment.
Yes, we are not sure why the platemate jig comes with screws too short to work in many inset applications, they are probably figuring on a hinge cup placement closer to the end of the door
Should we be using Staples or Brads? several videos say brads and this video says staples and brads? thanks
Years ago when we first shot videos, we felt brads were better for homeowners as we feared that staples, with two protrusions, would have double the risk of shanking out in to the finished cabinet interior, etc. About 18 months ago, we began experimenting with Staples more in our own assemblies as they certainly have better hold. Lo and behold, as long as we used a staple no longer than 1.25″, we really liked the staples better than the brads and have begun reshooting our videos with this option. Obviously, we can’t and won’t have all our assembly videos reshot at one time as we shoot them as we assemble local jobs, so it will take some time to get them all reshot and changed out. You will see us mention staples more and more as we get all the videos reshot, but you cant go wrong either way. If all you have is a brad nailer, it will work just fine. Don’t go buy a new staple gun just for this.
But to clarify – if I don’t own either a brad nailer or a stapler, and so will be buying a tool either way – would your recommendation now be to go for the stapler?
Hey Brian, thanks for your reply – yes, if you’re picking up a new tool, I’d go with the stapler. Have a great day!
Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *
Notify me of new posts by email.