Video Transcript
[Music] Hey everybody, Brian from Cabinet Joint. We're talking about wine storage units today. We've seen a real increase in kitchen designs that require some sort of wine storage. It used to be the crisscross wine lattice racks, that kind of thing. Now, it's getting into more delicately designed ways to store wine. And so, we came out with these wine storage units about a year or two ago, maybe a little longer than that.
And this is just to slide a bottle of wine in rather with the cork hanging out. These do not allow the wine bottle to tip. So, some people like to have the wine bottle tip so the cork stays wet. This is a horizontal application, and the wine just slides in with just a little bit of the neck and the cork sticking out. Do be aware that I'm not sure every size wine bottle will fit. This is for conventional bottles. If you have the Magnum size bottles, I don't believe they'll fit in this hole. The unit is 6 inches wide, the plywood is 3/4, so this opening is 4 and 1/2 by 4 and 1/2 roughly. So, bear that in mind.
They come in wall and base. The base one, as you see here, it's got the toe kick to match your toe kick on your cabinets. And it's only available 34 and a half inches high, 6 inches wide. There's no variations for height or width. For depth, you can go from 12 and a half inches deep all the way up to 30 inches deep. Anytime you go beyond the 12 and a half depth, they just keep adding side material. Let me tip this down and show you. The interior depth is always 11 and 3/4. And all they do is give you a cavity back here because the wine can only go in so far. We don't want your wine to slide all the way back inside the cabinet. So, this is just extra depth added to the sides. The actual interior is still 11 and 3/4 no matter what depth you make it.
What you hear popping there is the cardboard, not the cabinet. Wall cabinets, similar. They're available 30, 36, and 42 inches high. No variations because, again, we have to keep these openings symmetrical to slide wine in. So, you can't get one that's 38 and a half inches high or it would get very odd with these compartments. So, it's 30, 36, 42 only. 6 inches wide. And in the case of the wall ones that don't have this toe kick, they're 12 and a half inches deep up to 27 deep. They don't go to the 30, it's to 27 deep. And it's the same thing. There's a false back at 11 and 3/4 and the sides extend when you go beyond 12 and a half into a 15 deep or an 18 deep. If you had deeper wall cabinets you're lining it up with, you're just going to get those extended sides.
It's panelized construction, uses dowels that are going to be glued in place. You'll see that in the assembly. It's just held together with dowels, and all the front leading edges are banded and painted to match. That's a solid wood, not solid wood, but a veneered real wood edge banding painted to match. In the case of like a stained one, it's going to be a matching real veneer, cherry, maple, whatever, with the same stain on it. So, this is not a PVC edge band. It's a real painted or stained edge band to give you a nice finished look.
So, we hope that helps. Let's get into the assembly because these do require a second set of hands. They're a little fussy because you're trying to line up these dowels. You'll see me bring Jeffrey on at the end to get that final cabinet side on. But these aren't bad. They're not as bad as like letter file slots which use a lot more dowels and a lot more suspended shelves and things. These are pretty straightforward, but you'll see me bring a second set of hands in. Make sure you do too. Let's get started.
Okay, let's get started on this wine storage unit assembly. This is going to be the same for a wall wine storage unit or a base one. The only difference is the base ones have the toe kick notch meant to sit on the floor. The assembly is pretty much the same. Again, the purpose of these wine storage units is just to hold bottles of wine in cubbies, so it's one size fits all. The assembly is always the same.
So, let's do our inventory of parts. We have the mid shelves which go here on this line of holes here. What you're looking at is the cabinet side with my toe notch, so I have the left side of the cabinet kind of laying on its side. Then you have two of these that have a rabbit cut in it. The rabbit is very important. You don't want to mix these up and install these in the mid area because these have a very important purpose for that rabbit. I'll show you that. Let's pretend these two are installed like they will be in a moment. The cabinet back goes into that groove in the back of the cabinet and the rabbit grabs that groove. That's what that back tucks into, and then this cabinet side will nest on top once I have all these in with my dowels facing up, so I have all my parts. Two sides, a back, top and a bottom, and my mid shelf. And you're also going to find in your hardware a bunch of these little fluted dowels. These have to get glued in, so in a minute I'm going to go through and put doops of glue in all my downward facing holes and press all my panels in. These flutes, with the glue, once they set up, are rock solid. They'll hold together really well. You just tap them in with a rubber mallet. You'll see me do that in a moment. And then we can press the top on. But you want to make sure you have enough of these. Count your holes up, so I've got two holes on left and right side. So, I got 12 total holes on each side. So, I need 24 of these for this particular application. Make sure you have enough. If you don't, you can typically buy these at Lowe's or Home Depot. Just take one with you to match it up. You can replace these pretty easy, or you can just call your cabinet coach if you get shorted or can't find yours, but you have to have the dowels to have this thing assembled. It does not go together with the staple gun and that kind of thing like most of our cabinets do.
Alright, so I'm going to get started in a minute here. You're going to see me go through and put glue in all of these holes, and I'm going to put my dowels in and set these down on top. To summarize, I've got glue in all of these holes here, glue in the ends of these two that are going to drop in there. Now, what I'm going to
do is take my dowels and just in each hole, insert a dowel and then just gently tap it into place. Don't force it. If you bang it too hard, you're going to bottom out the hole and could possibly pucker the veneer on the other side. Just tap it until you get a thud and it's set. I'm going to go through and drop all these in, and then come back and show you how we set the panels on top.
Okay, got all my dowels in. Going to start with my cabinet top. Keep the rabbit facing downward or inward, I should say. Line up your dowels and just press the panel on. I'm going to do the same thing all the way down. Make sure you have your finished end facing out the way you're going to see this. If you put the wrong face forward and it glues up that way, you now have an unedged banded, unpainted end and it will not look good. It's not even sure it would go together if you tried to orient it that way. It's going to stick way proud. So, it's almost impossible to get it wrong, but you never know. So, I'm going to go through and put all these on, and I'll come back and show you how to put the back in and drop that on top.
Alright, got all my shelves and top and bottom on. I'm going to go through and put my glue dollops in all these holes, set my brads or my dowels, and then I'm going to call Jeffrey on screen because setting the other side on top of these dowels, getting them all to line up as well as getting this back when I put it in, getting this back to honor that bet on the other cabinet side, it just requires a lot of fussing and you'll see that on the camera. But I'm going to need Jeffrey. You'll want a second set of hands as well. So, stay tuned for that. I'm going to go through and glue all these.
Okay, got all my dowels in. I'm going to go ahead and set this back panel in. This does not need to be glued. It's not structural. It's just a decorative back. And you can see how that's flipping and flopping. That's what we have to kind of get to honor the groove on this one. So, now what I do is glue my other holes real quick, and then Jeffrey and I are going to set this on together.
Okay, I got my holes glued. There's going to be a lot of glue squeeze out, by the way. So, I'm not sure if you're watching the video when I was putting the glue in, you're going to want to wipe up any mess after you're done filling each hole.
Alright, Jeffrey. See if we can get this on. Going to lift this into place and we're going to try to line things up. Oops, got to get that. Okay, you're on over here. Oh, I like that sound. I like that sound. Wipe any dirt off. So, now is when you're going to want to clamp this. That's kind of how it looks until we run clamps. This will pull it all together real well. And I'll go through and fill it with some more off-screen. But you'll want to see these gaps come together nice and tight. And then once that glue sets up, she's a done cabinet.
So, if you ever have any questions, you can talk to your cabinet coach. They'll be happy to guide you through it. Again, there's variations of this cabinet, wall and base. Even though it's a base cabinet and meant to go full depth, 24, the wine bottles only go in halfway. That's why you have this false back halfway back the cabinet, and your wine bottle will poke out with your cork out here. So yeah, again, if you have any questions, contact your cabinet coach, and we hope you got something out of this video. Thanks for watching.
