Updated video showing how to install a drawer front on to a drawer box easily and with no special tools or clamps

6 thoughts on “Installing a Drawer Front on a Drawer Box

  1. Command adhesive strip refills are thinner than the foam tape so there is a smaller gap between the front and the box. Also, if you leave the tabs outside the drawer box, you can pull them out without damaging either piece. They cost more than the tape but you really don’t need that many.

  2. I found that two pieces of the foam tape is plenty.
    I would make one change to the method though. Pre-drill pilot holes for the hardware into the the drawer face prior to mounting on the box. Much easier to use a measuring jig on the back side of the drawer front to mark/drill pilot holes when you can lay the drawer front flat onto your work table. Then, after the front is mounted on the box, come back to finish the pilot hole through the front of the box and then full drill with the right size bit for the screw/pull mounting.

  3. I helped a friend use a similar method, except he ran a tiny bead of painter’s calk over the top joints and gave it a curved profile to the caulk by running his finger over it…. I helped him do all the drawers at once after everything else was done and it added maybe 10 extra minutes to a kitchen with 10-15 drawers in it… It was years ago, so all I recall is doing the caulking at the end…

  4. I have the Conestoga Marquis drawer fronts (RTA cabinets) When the drawer fronts are placed on the drawers, there is not enough “meat” to place any screws. How you attach this style drawer front?

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